Food, Travel

August 1, 2022

A Weekend in Birmingham

Just a simple car ride away from the hustle and bustle of Atlanta, through rolling hills and green foliage is beautiful Birmingham.   It feels like you have stepped back in time – away from the noise and pressure of a big city.   However, the underbelly of Birmingham’s food scene – surely let’s you know – this is no average city.

Everyone wants to know where you are from and what brings you to their city.  The genuine friendliness of each person is almost overwhelming (especially for someone who is from the North).   When you are sweltering from the summer heat – a shop owner will tell you exactly where to place your feet in their store so as to experience the optimum air conditioning to cool yourself down.  There is no speediness in this area of the country – everyone takes their time and care when maneuvering through their daily routine.  It makes you take a step back and think about your own hurried schedule and why don’t you take it a little easier on the day-to-day stuff.   It’ll all get done – just a little slower, calmer and happier.

DAY 1 

Stop #1

Bottega Restaurant

Pardis and Frank Stitt have created a warm, welcoming environment that gathers the who’s who of Birmingham.  It feels like you are walking into someone’s home and all their friends have been invited for lunch.   One sip of their Great Gatsby (Ketel One, Lillet blanc, and grapefruit) or their famous Orange Thing (orange and vodka martini – a Birmingham staple) and the world just seems to make sense.  

We met my friend Eliza of Paper Eliza. Paper Eliza is Birmingham’s premier source for all things paper. I knew I had to place an order and meet her IRL when I was here! From start to finish, Paper Eliza aims to design your custom stationery or wedding paper with excellence, painting/creating/typesetting a series of beautiful, tangible, and high-quality products that tell a story almost as beautiful as a love story itself. Please just look at the gorgeous set she made for my company, Match South!

Stop #2

Continental Bakery in English Village

An amazing find in the heart of English Village in Mountain Brook was an amazing bakery with a line out the door.   Their cookies and peach muffins were just what we needed to curb that sweet tooth and also box up adorable 4th of July cookies for a visit to a friend’s new home.  

Stop #3

Le Weekend

Ever the small town, walking into Le Weekend we were greeted by the shop owner’s friend who, of course, wanted to know what we were up to in town.   Sharing our amazing lunch experience at Bottega with Paper Eliza, we quickly found out that they were in fact friends too.  

Of course – I had to purchase the most adorable summer dress that will enhance any wardrobe – great for those warm evenings, yet sophisticated and I will not see myself coming and going in this one-of-a-kind dress.

Stop #4 A’mano Gifts

Stop #5. 

Gilchrist

A classic local lunch spot in Mountain Brook – had to try their Limeade.  Ok – delicious and refreshing. As I looked around I feel as if I had traveled back in time. Kids had just rolled in from camp, ordering sandwiches and asking to put them on their parent’s tab! I mean it doesn’t get more old school than that.

Stop #6

Christy’s House

One way you can get a feel for a community is to visit a friend who lives there.  Driving through the beautiful streets of Moutain Brook (slowly because we wanted to see all the precious and amazing homes) we came upon our childhood friend’s home which was something out of a fairytale.   Like all the other homes in the area – the landscaping and décor were warm and welcoming.   So great to see our friend happy and living the good life.

Stop #7

GianMarco’s

Arriving early before the crowd starts we were greeted by a pleasant valet who quickly questioned us – “Hey – weren’t you two at Bottega for lunch just a few hours ago??  We all had a good laugh and said yes – we were in here for a few days eating our way through Birmingham.  Burl made a few additional suggestions that we added to our list and we headed in for an amazing Italian dinner. 

GianMarco’s is family owned by Father and Sons Giovanni, Giani and Marco Respinto.   I can see why this is one of the most popular restaurants in town with a 1-2 week ahead reservation needed.   Passing the meat counter with beautiful cuts of meat – it was a given that this would be no ordinary Italian dining experience.

Started with Burrata & Bresaola – rosemary honey, evo, micro arugula, Eggplant Involtini – ricotta, parmesan & marinara

Always the gracious host – our server was happy to ensure that I could try both pasta dishes – asking the kitchen to create a half portion of each.  Delightful.

Pistachio & Goat Cheese Crusted Rack of Lamb – roasted fingerling potatoes, asparagus, chianti sauce

Don’t miss the wine bar tucked in the back area – it’s a hidden gem and you can make reservations there too – the atmosphere is quiet and hidden away – a great spot for a date night.

Day #2

Up early given the 1-hour time difference with Atlanta.  We headed out for a walk from the Redmont Hotel in search of coffee.   To be transparent we switched hotels on this day. We decided we would be much happier at The Grand Bohemian in Mountain Brook! This hotel is a Birmingham favorite. It’s a 4 star hotel that falls under the Autograph Collection by Marriott.  While only minutes from downtown Birmingham, this luxury Marriott property is a world away!  If you are familiar with The Grand Bohemian concept – then you know about the amazing art displayed throughout the property.   We checked into our room and quickly noticed the spa.  So, of course, we made appointments for a massage for the following morning.  Now – off to change and have lunch at Chez Fon Fon.

Stop #2

Chez Fon Fon

In the heart of Five Points, this little gem has re-created a French Bistro with the finest of service.   We were fortunate enough to garner a table in the back garden/patio area.   While the weather was warm, the set-up was delightful for lunch with a covered awning and numerous fans.   We kept our cool!   Our delightful server suggested we have a glass of the Pouilly Fumé Régis Minet “Vieilles Vignes” ’20 Loire.   Now, who can resist a crisp, refreshing glass of white?  We actually discussed how this glass of wine was the perfect summer, lunch wine!  Ok – we had two!!

Of course, we had the Escargots with shallot & garlic butter.  And while trying not to eat too much bread – the amazing garlic butter could not go to waste so we had to order the Petite baguette & butter to soak it all up.   The baguette was so hot, fresh, and crusty – we had to let it sit a minute to cool down.   Perfection!

Knowing we had to pace ourselves we ordered the Croque Madame with fried egg & sauce mornay with pommes frites to share.  This was perfect and the mornay sauce was to die for with a hint of sweetness from the confectioner sugar.

Not one to spoil a good time, we decided to indulge in Chez Fon Fon’s famous Coconut Pecan Cake which is actually the first thing I noticed under a beautiful cake dome as we entered the Bistro.  So – let’s just say I was thinking about this cake the entire lunch.

Stop #3

Cookie Fix

With locations in Homewood, Cahaba Heights, and Huntsville – we are thankful that none of these locations are close enough for us to stop by on a regular basis.   Loving sweets the way I do – this is my dream store.   A small little shop on 18th Street South had patrons waiting in line outside the door as to conserve the air conditioning.   Everyone was talking about who had been here before, what to order and what was their favorite.  Children with moms were well behaved as they knew this was a special treat.   We ordered about a half dozen and quickly sat on their bench out front – tasting each one.  Yes, we looked like we hadn’t eaten in days – who would tell that we just came from Chez Fon Fon?  This is our job after all.  All cookies were amazing but I have to admit that the Red Velvet Sammie won our hearts.  

**We did stop back to Cookie Fix on our way out of town and got two more Red Sammie’s for the road and also picked up 4 lbs. of their frozen Presidential Cookie Dough!  Shhh – my husband doesn’t know it’s in the freezer.

If you can’t get to Birmingham – Cookie Fix can hook you up with a shipment of their frozen cookie dough.  You can order them here.

Stop #4

Grand Bohemian

Back to the hotel to unbutton our pants and take a 1 hour power nap before we got ready for our amazing dinner.

Stop #5

Helen

While our dinner plans were for Automatic Seafood but we could not, in good conscience, leave Birmingham without trying Helen and its famous Tomato Pie.   Up the flight of stairs to the bar area – we sat next to couples and business folk out for an early dinner.  The smell of the hardwood coals and smoke is what grabbed my attention at first but then the amazing and detailed, friendly service clearly won me over.   The turn-around time on our Tomato Pie order was startling!  The buttery crust with piled-high tomatoes held together with pimento cheese and herbs – was a winner.  This was a perfect appetizer with our Sparkling Rose! While our visit at Helen was brief, It’s high on my list and I will be back to experience an entire meal.

Stop #6

Automatic Seafood

And we’re off to Automatic Seafood.  Hitting the Lakeview District we found Automatic Seafood and Oyster to be a fun jaunty place that amazingly was a fine dining establishment.  If you didn’t know where you were – you’d think you were on the ocean.  

Chef Adam Evans has an impressive and extensive resume working with many noteworthy chefs throughout the country. Including our dear friend Ford Fry (if you are an Atlantian reading this). A big congratulation go to Chef Adam Evans as the Winner of the James Beard award for Best Chef: South (AL, AR, FL, LA, MS, PR). So yes….you’ll need a reservation!

“All I can say is Shrimp Toast!  This was by far and away the best Shrimp Toast I have ever had.  While listed as an appetizer – it could have been an entire meal.  The freshness, herbs, and toast are hard to put into words.  But thick toast with ample shrimp which you need both knife and fork to eat. Amazing.” – my mom

The Curry Shrimp dish is a delightful combination of southern and Indian.  Just a slight hint of curry with a smattering of cilantro created an amazing taste sensation.  My curry shrimp dish was bountiful and had to take some home for breakfast.

Of course, we do not want dessert!  Until you tell me it’s a chocolate tarte with caramel and whipped cream. This dessert was one of the most delicious treats ever.  Not too sweet with a delicious shortbread type crust – yes – we did have dessert.

Oh, you thought we were done?  Nope

Stop #7

Headed back to Grand Bohemian where we met some friends on the rooftop for drinks.  Again – The Grand Bohemian is a luxury property and their rooftop action was top-notch. Not only do they have great outdoor seating and amazing service, but they also have the Habitat Cooking School and Wine Blending Classes.   This is an interactive experience that sure looks like fun.  While not able to attend either this trip – I foresee a girl’s trip in my future.

Day #3

Slept in slightly!

9:00 a.m. off to Spa for a massage

The Poseidon Spa was an unexpected treat for us, weary travelers.  My masseuse was a very experienced and caring woman who certainly knew how to address my hamstring issues.  The experience was a perfect way to wind down our time in Birmingham.

Stop #2

Birmingham Botanical Gardens

These beautiful gardens provided an amazing backdrop for some beautiful photos.  Steps from The Grand Bohemian Hotel – this magical garden has varietals of flowers sure to spark the interest of every level of gardener.  

Stop #3

Back to the Gilchrist for their Pimento BLT.  We needed nourishment for the car ride home.

Stop #4

Little Boutique in Mountain Brook called Christine’s on Canterbury.  The owner was a delightful woman who made us feel right at home.   We found an antique christening dress that will be used for generations to come.  Such a special find!

Stop #5

Momma Goldbergs Deli – this was a throwback to my college days and I could not pass up the opportunity to reminisce. I first was introduced to Momma G’s on a trip to Auburn, AL for the infamous Auburn Rodeo. This was my sophomore year of college and it just so happened they opened one up at Florida State that same year! Lucky me! One Turkey Delight and Mommas Nachos WITH jalapenos, please!

Stop #5

I mentioned earlier that we “needed” to stop by Cookie Fix again.  I guess they call it that because we needed another “fix”.   Two Red Velvet Sammies and 4 lbs. of frozen cookie dough later and we were finally ready to hit the road home.

What an amazing adventure.   I can’t believe all that we actually accomplished in 2.5 days but we did it.  What this taught me is that I need to visit Birmingham again and again.  There is so much history with such an amazing food scene that I’m sure many don’t know about! See you soon Birmingham!